Does Cleveland, in fact, rock?
I used to live with someone who watched The Drew Carey Show, and I would titter at the theme song, partly because the video was funny and partly because I could not imagine a world in which Cleveland rocked.
Then I married a born-and-bred Clevelander (Clevelandian? Your guess is as good as mine.) and made several trips to the city, where my in-laws still live.
I'm not going so far as to say it rocks, at least not from my limited time there. It's a big Midwestern city that's fallen on hard times. It feels pretty familiar to this girl from Omaha, although Omaha has not suffered as much and I understand that it's becoming downright hip. (Sidenote: I cannot imagine Omaha being hip, per se, but it's always had one of the largest numbers of restaurants per capita of any American city. Go figure.)
But I will say this about Cleveland: it has a bright restaurant scene, one of the best-known food writers and bloggers, Michael Ruhlman, and maybe the best market I've ever seen. The market alone might be reason to live there. |
| Check out the suckling pig in the background. |
The West Side Market has more than a hundred vendors--bakers, butchers, cheesemongers, ethnic food stands--you name it, it's there. It's the kind of place you can actually talk to the butcher about how to prepare a certain cut of meat, or find a baker who will remember your favorite kind of kolache. The market is over a hundred years old, with the majority of the time of its current site.
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| Can anyone identify what type of pastry this is? I've never heard of a "monk," but I want one. |
It's not fancy--it smells like fish from the many fishmongers, and there are no real amenities--but I want desperately to have it as my market. I want to be introduced to stinky cheeses from foreign countries and be cajoled into cuts of meat that would never make it into the local supermarket. It's a genuine throwback to a time where people had relationships with their food sellers.
Alice Waters would approve. And it has the best felafel I've ever had.
Details: The market is located at 1979 West 25th street and is only open four days a week: Monday & Wednesday 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Friday & Saturday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
I have actually been intrigued by Cleveland every since Bourdain did a show on it (which I think included Michael Ruhlman.) Thanks for the friend request and I buzzed you! I look forward to checking out your posts.
ReplyDeleteI've heard people rave about this market! I hope to see it in person one day~
ReplyDeleteI'm a Clevelander myself so I love your review of the market! It is pretty awesome, isn't it?!
ReplyDeleteThat's a pretty cool market! I agree with you regarding Cleveland...it's fallen on hard times, but it's nice to see it's reinventing itself!
ReplyDeleteI married a Clevelander myself. They have a tour there called Lolly on the Trolley. It runs a couple of hours and gives you a great sense of Cleveland's history.
ReplyDeletePersonally, I've been told you haven't experienced Cleveland cuisine until you've had Slovenian blood sausage. Not my thing really, but my wife loves it!
I have this theory that the best way to know a city is to visit the local market where one can breathe in the flavors and vibe of the city. This seems to be a great way to know the city of Cleveland. Great post!
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